Jewelry plating: gold, platinum and rhodium

Plating is the thin layer of metal that gives a piece of jewelry its color. Underneath is a base of medical gold – a special hypoallergenic alloy – or medical steel. Here's how the three most common types of plating differ and how to choose between them.

The three platings you'll see most often

• Gold plating. A warm yellow or rose tone. It's the most common, because it gives exactly the look people buy jewelry for.
• Platinum plating. A cool, silvery-white tone, slightly darker than rhodium. Durable and neutral.
• Rhodium plating. The brightest white of the three. It's also used to give white gold and silver their shine.

What 14K, 18K and 24K mean on fashion jewelry

On a gold-plated piece, these figures don't indicate the fineness of the item itself – they refer to the gold alloy the plating layer is made from. They tell you the shade, not the amount of gold.

• 14K – a lighter, slightly cooler yellow.
• 18K – a rich, classic gold tone. The one you'll come across most often.
• 24K – the deepest, warmest yellow.

If a piece carries a stamp that looks like a hallmark, that's a different story – we've explained it in a separate article: what 585RG means.

How long plating keeps its color

No plating lasts forever – it's a thin layer, and it wears away. How long it lasts comes down to three things: the thickness of the layer, where on the body the piece is worn, and how it's looked after.

• Earrings and pendants last the longest – they hardly ever get rubbed.
• Rings and bracelets wear faster, because they're constantly rubbing against hands, bags and tabletops.
• Chains sit somewhere in between: wear shows up at the clasp, not on the links.

If the color has already changed, first find out whether it's build-up or wear – they call for different fixes: if your jewelry has darkened.

Which plating to choose

• For everyday wear and the office – platinum or rhodium plating. A cool tone makes wear less noticeable.
• If you want the look of gold – an 18K tone. It reads as gold without being too pale or too orange.
• For sensitive skin – any of the three: the base of our jewelry is hypoallergenic. A reaction is usually caused by the base metal, not by the plating.

Shop by plating: 18K gold plating, Platinum-plated earrings, Rhodium-plated bracelets.

What's under the plating and why it matters is covered here: what jewelry is made of.

How to make plating last longer

The simplest rule: jewelry goes on last and comes off first. Perfume, moisturizer and hairspray are harder on plating than everyday wear.

Swimming pools and the sea are the main enemy – chlorine and salt shorten the life of plating more than anything else. The full care routine: jewelry care.

Frequently asked questions

Can rhodium plating be restored?

Technically a workshop can do it, but for fashion jewelry it usually costs more than a new piece. In practice, it's only done on precious-metal jewelry.

Why has my white-toned piece turned yellowish?

It means the white plating has worn through in places and the base is showing. Build-up can be cleaned off; wear can't.

Is platinum plating more expensive than gold plating?

Not necessarily. The price depends more on the thickness of the layer and on the piece itself than on which metal is used for the plating.