Steel, silver or plating: what your jewellery is made of
What fashion jewellery is made of: medical steel, silver and gold plating. How they differ, which suits whom and how long each one lasts.
Most jewellery in a shop looks much the same, but underneath the plating there are different metals – and that's what decides whether a piece will still look the same a year from now. Here's a quick guide to each material and who it suits.
Three materials you'll come across
- Medical steel (316L). It doesn't rust or tarnish and causes no reaction in most people. It's the base of our jewellery. More detail: medical steel.
- Silver. A beautiful cool tone, but it naturally tarnishes in air and needs cleaning from time to time.
- Gold plating. Not solid gold but a thin layer of gold over a steel base. A gold tone at a fashion-jewellery price.
Fashion jewellery or solid gold: which to choose
This isn't a question of quality but of purpose. Solid gold is an investment, bought to last for decades. Fashion jewellery is about being able to change your style without overpaying.
The practical difference: a gold-plated piece won't last forever, but for the price of one solid gold ring you could have five different ones. The gold ring is just one piece – but it's for keeps.
If you see ‘585’ or ‘585RG’ stamped on a piece of fashion jewellery, it isn't a purity hallmark – the reason is explained here: what 585RG means.
What determines how long plating lasts
- Thickness. The thicker the layer of gold, the longer it holds its tone. This is the main factor.
- Where it's worn. Rings and bracelets wear faster than earrings – simply because they're exposed to more rubbing.
- Care. Chlorine, perfume and abrasive cleaners shorten its life more than everyday wear does.
What to choose if your skin is sensitive
A steel base with good-quality plating is the safest option – any nickel in it is bound rather than free. For more on what triggers a reaction and how to avoid it, see hypoallergenic jewellery.
A full guide to what to clean your jewellery with and how to store it is on a separate page: jewellery care.
Where to find more
Material guides: medical steel, medical gold, jewellery plating.
Collections: Gold-plated jewellery and Silver-tone jewellery.
Frequently asked questions
Are medical steel and surgical steel the same thing?
In practice, yes – both terms refer to stainless steel alloys that rarely cause a reaction. The grade most often used in jewellery is 316L.
Can a gold-plated piece be restored?
Not at home. Once the plating has worn through to the base, it can only be re-plated in a workshop, and for fashion jewellery that usually costs more than a new piece.
Is silver better than steel?
Not better – just different. Silver is a precious metal with its own tone, but it tarnishes; steel doesn't tarnish, but it isn't a precious metal.
