Medical steel in jewellery: what it is and how to spot it
Medical steel (316L) in jewellery: why it doesn't rust, is kind to skin and stands up to water – and how it differs from ordinary steel.
Medical steel is the 316L grade of stainless steel – the same grade used to make surgical instruments and implants. It's used in jewellery because it doesn't rust, doesn't irritate the skin and stands up to water. Below, we explain how it differs from ordinary steel and how to recognise the real thing.
What is medical steel?
316L is a steel alloy containing chromium, nickel and molybdenum. The chromium forms a thin oxide film on the surface that repairs itself – which is exactly why the metal doesn't rust. The ‘L’ stands for low carbon, which makes the alloy more resistant to corrosion.
How it differs from ordinary steel
- It doesn't rust. Ordinary steel oxidises with sweat and moisture; the surface of 316L renews itself.
- The nickel stays in the alloy. It's bound and isn't released onto the skin – which is why the material also suits sensitive skin.
- It's harder than silver and gold. Pieces don't bend or scratch as easily.
- It doesn't tarnish. Silver needs regular cleaning; steel keeps its tone without any treatment.
Does medical steel contain nickel?
Yes, as an alloying element – and that's normal. What matters is not whether nickel is present but whether it's released. In 316L it's tightly bound, so most people with a nickel sensitivity tolerate the material. If your ears react to everything, titanium is the safer choice – see our article on hypoallergenic earrings.
How to recognise genuine 316L
- The description names a specific grade – 316L or ‘surgical steel’ – rather than just ‘metal’.
- A magnet barely sticks: 316L is only weakly magnetic, unlike cheaper grades.
- The surface keeps its tone after contact with water and sweat.
For ROTAS69 jewellery, the base material is listed for every piece – see all our jewellery.
Steel with gold plating
This is the most common combination in everyday jewellery: the 316L base provides durability and is safe for the skin, while 18K gold plating gives the gold tone. How the plating is applied and how long it lasts is explained in our article on medical gold.
Care
Steel itself needs very little: rinse it in warm water and wipe it dry. If a piece is plated, the usual rules apply – see our jewellery care page.
Frequently asked questions
What is medical steel?
The 316L grade of stainless steel, which is also used for surgical instruments. It's chosen for jewellery for its durability and because it's safe for the skin.
Does medical steel rust?
No. The chromium forms a self-renewing protective film on the surface, so the material stands up to water and sweat.
Can you shower in steel jewellery?
Water does no harm to the steel itself. If the piece has gold plating, it's better to take it off – chlorine and soap wear the plating down.
Is medical steel more expensive than silver?
No, it's usually cheaper – but it's more durable for everyday wear and doesn't need regular cleaning.
