Chains: how to choose a weave and clasp

You don't choose a chain by its metal but by its weave and clasp – they're what decide whether it survives a year of everyday wear. For lengths, see our size guide, which has a table and a calculator; here we cover everything else.

The weaves you'll come across most often

• Anchor (rolo). Round links of equal size. Simple and strong, and it doesn't catch in your hair – a safe choice for a pendant. View.
• Curb. Flattened, tightly interlocking links. It lies flat against the skin and catches the light beautifully. View.
• Bismarck. Double links joined in two rows. Dense and heavy – the most durable of the everyday options. View.
• Snake. A smooth, almost continuous surface with no visible links. Beautiful, but prone to kinking. View.
• Venetian. Square links in a single line. Fine and geometric, well suited to delicate pieces. View.
• Figaro. Alternating long and short links. A recognisable pattern, often seen on men's chains. View.

Which weave stands up to everyday wear

On an everyday chain, it isn't the link that breaks but the point where the chain folds. So the rule is simple: the denser the weave, the fewer places it can break.

• For wearing every day without taking it off – Bismarck or curb. They withstand tugging and don't stretch.
• For a pendant – an anchor weave. It doesn't twist around its own axis, so the pendant stays at the front.
• For occasional wear – snake. It looks beautiful, but once it's bent, it stays kinked for good.

A thin chain isn't worse than a thick one – it simply has a different job. But the thinner it is, the more the clasp matters.

Clasps: where chains really go missing

• Lobster clasp. The most reliable for everyday wear: the spring is only under strain when you open it.
• Spring ring clasp. A classic on fine chains, but the spring weakens over time – this is the one that most often comes undone on its own.
• Toggle clasp. Easy to fasten with one hand, but it can slip open as you move. Better on heavier chains, where the weight holds it in place.

A practical note: the gold plating wears off first on the clasp, not on the links – that's where you open it with your fingernails every day.

Plating and colour

The weave itself doesn't determine how long a chain keeps its gold tone – the plating does. How gold, platinum and rhodium layers differ: jewellery plating.

If the colour has already changed, first find out whether it's build-up or wear: if your jewellery has darkened.

Browse: All chains, Classic chains, Bismarck chains, Men's chains.

The care a chain actually needs

Don't store chains in a jumbled heap – a knot is exactly where the chain will break later on. The simplest fix is to fasten the clasp before you put it away.

The full care routine is covered separately: jewellery care. What's under the plating: what jewellery is made of.

Frequently asked questions